Next Stop Hanakoa Camp Mile 6
Leaving the beach and heading up the trail I climbed stairs that lead to what first looked like an elevated cabin however was in fact an outhouse. The elevation actually makes sense as the stream swells overs its banks significantly during the rainy season. The trail still shows signs of the rain that had just closed the trail. Having just reopened the trail is wet, muddy, slow moving and slick. Beautiful and alive, green and fresh smelling you can hear the stream running full, birds singing and dancing in the trees.
Looking down at the trail however shows the remnants of the massive rain fall. Covered in mud and leaves the trail is like walking up hill on a slip and slide covered in banana leaves while bare foot and carrying a 45 pound backpack. It is not easy. There are areas where rocks cover the trail; these are glistening wet after the morning rain.
Slow Going
I had debated bringing Trek Poles and at this point I am glad I did bring them. Balance while navigating the slick conditions was made easier with poles than without. Up hill or down hill; it didn’t really matter what direction it was all slow going. My watch kindly provided my time per mile at it was horrendous. 56 minutes, 49 minutes and a speedy 40.24 minutes while going downhill. Trudging is what I am doing rather than hiking; trying not to fall on my ass takes energy.
No Place I would Rather Be!
I haven’t seen anyone since I left the beach. The solitude is enjoyable; listening to the forest and animals, my mind wanders but I work on staying mindful and being in the moment. Listening pays off as I spy a bird up the trail, looks like a grouse or pheasant. I unfortunately was not able to get too close and the forest to the right became alive and rusted loudly scaring the bird off into the trees. The movement comes closer and the grunting becomes audible as a feral pig pounds through the jungle. Focused and either doesn’t notice me or doesn’t really care; the pig stops about 25 yards off to the right in the brush and begins rooting.
This encounter and the whole day is now better in focus. There is no place I would rather be. The slick muddy trail is a welcomed obstacle to be overcome and not a defeating hindrance. If I have any regret it would be leaving my camera in the Jeep. I would have gladly left all the extra clothes, except the dry socks, to have my camera. I could have done without extra shirts, or pants, heck I could have left swim trunks back at the condo as well. My my wanders to what I would pack for next trip. I pull myself back to the moment and leave the pig to its rooting and foraging.
The Ups and Downs of Valley Hiking
Approaching 1:00 pm and I climb out of the Hanakapi’ai Valley with the Ho’olulu and Waiahuakua Valleys sitting between me and the Hanakoa Valley. This valley camp is at mile 6 which is just over half way to Kalalua beach and my planned rest point for lunch. The trail now has areas that are drier as the ascent has been steep but the lower valleys are still muddy, slick and slow moving. There haven’t been any really large or fast streams to cross since leaving the beach. I am hoping to pick up the pace a little; again I contemplate a lighter pack and faster pace.
Hanakoa Valley Camp
Coming down the left side of Hanakoa Valley I am getting excited to make the camp and get some food and drink before pushing to Kalalua Beach. The Hanakoa Valley terrain maintains its jungle beauty; green, wet, and humid. The birds song is welcoming but the stream can be heard over their chatter.
I encounter my first fellow traveler since leaving Ke’e Beach, she is sitting high up on a rock eating lunch. We exchange pleasantries but I move on to find myself a rock to rest on. After walking along the river for about ten minutes I lose the trail. It would be strange for it to cross the stream and go back up the side from whence I came, there is really no way to continue on this side of the trail as the steep incline extends into the stream providing no access without a machete. Obviously I have taking a misstep and lost my way.
I backtrack and find the lady who’s friends have joined her on the rock. I mumble something about getting lost and head up the correct trail.
Mile 6 Camp
I walked up to the camp off to the left of the trail. It is not the nicest set up but an option if I can’t continue. I do it have a permit for this camp, it is still early enough that I should be able to get five more miles in before sunset. Worse case scenario I set up camp in the dark using my headlamp. Staying here is really not an option. Having lost 20 minutes due to my error I forego stopping for lunch but grab a couple protein bars and drink from my hydration bag.
Heading up and out of Hanakoa Valley, looking forward to meeting Crawler’s Ledge.
